Removing extra resin from UV resin prints after curing if the photo is sticky is possible. To clean the image, use a toothbrush or denatured alcohol. It is cheapest to use acetone as an alternative. You can use WET paper to sand the print if you want to reduce dust.
Use the right tool for the job when removing UV resin. By using silicone tools, you can avoid wax sticking to the instrument. Use a plastic trash bag instead of silicone if silicone is not available. A shelf liner from IKEA is another option. You can use an isopropyl alcohol jug if you do not want water. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area.
Methods to Remove UV Resin without Damaging Any Part
Sometimes, it is necessary to remove cured adhesive before repairing or disassembling a component. However, UV adhesives and coatings are cross-linked thermoset resins that cannot be melted and are hard to remove. Please read the following information carefully to avoid damaging the part.
Removing conformal coatings from printed circuit boards is more common than adhesives. In TB095, Dymax provides detailed instructions for removing its conformal coatings. A general method for removing cured adhesive is to weaken it with heat, cold, or chemical exposure. Reviewing the Material Data Sheet may provide clues on safely removing the material.
A glass transition temperature (Tg), water absorption, or chemical resistance may indicate the most appropriate removal method. The removal process may damage some parts of the assembly. It is important to retest the amount after removal and repair to ensure that it meets the application’s lifetime use and durability requirements.
Method 1: Heat Removal
Heat application may be the best method for separating bonded parts or removing a coating, depending on the bond’s substrate, adhesive, and configuration. The application of force may be possible to separate the resin from the substrate if the adhesive is heated to 150°C or above the glass transition temperature (Tg). Wiping or scraping any remaining exposed material after separating parts or coatings from the substrate will make cleanup easier.
Method 2: Embrittlement with Cold
Adhesives that are hard and rigid are more likely to shatter at shallow temperatures than those that are flexible. A part dipped in liquid nitrogen, wrapped in dry ice, or brought below -60°C may embrittle an adhesive. Taping the hard part may break the bond, allowing the pieces to separate. In some cases, a solvent soak is still required to remove residual material.
Method 3: Chemical Removal
To remove cured material, immerse the assembly in a chemical stripping solution or use a cotton swab to apply the key locally. Different adhesives, materials, and chemicals will require different removal times.
Before attempting to destroy the adhesive bond, it is critical to determine how the chemical will affect the part. Water is not an aggressive solvent and requires long soaks to degrade adhesive, so it is not practical for chemical removal. An adhesive bond may become softened by boiling water, allowing parts to separate.
Take Cautions Before Removing the Resin
Consult your company’s health and safety department if you are unsure of a safe removal process. This guide recommends following the manufacturer’s safety precautions when using any chemical product. Considering that each application and each part differs, Dymax cannot guarantee the effectiveness of any of the suggested removal methods in this bulletin.
Each method discussed in this guide must be thoroughly evaluated on an individual part and process to determine the level of risk, take necessary precautions, and, ultimately, determine the level of hazard.
When Dissolving Resin – Which Solvent is Best?
The most common way to remove resin is with chemical solvents such as IPA (isopropyl alcohol). Suppose you wish to remove stubborn resins that have hardened after printing. In that case, you should use solvents like IPA and dimethyl adipate, which are effective at dissolving hardened resin, leaving behind a clean surface without damaging your machinery.
- IPA: After using your 3D printer, IPA effectively dissolves all leftover resin. Due to its high evaporation rate, IPA also protects your device from moisture damage because it dries quickly and leaves no pooling behind. Compared to some IPA alternatives, IPA does not contain low volatile organic compounds (VOC) levels. However, IPA requires minimal safety gear to handle correctly.
- Low VOC Solvents: It is safer to use and handle dimethyl adipate than solvents such as IPA because it is less volatile and flammable. Due to their low evaporation rates, these low-VOC solvents can collect and reuse excess solvents. After cleaning your printer with dimethyl ester solvents, it is recommended that you use IPA for one final rinse to remove any remaining resin particles.
Frequently Asked Questions and Answers (FAQs)
How Long Does UV Resin Last After Curing?
UV resin coatings last between a few weeks and half a year. UV Resin is not a casting resin since it only allows casting depths of 1mm. Bubbles and voids would form in a thicker casting. Sunlight can blister or flake off UV resin even after it is cured.
Can I Wipe UV Resin With Alcohol?
Using an alcohol swab, wipe over the hardened Loon Outdoors UV Resin after it has been cured with the UV Torch. After this process, you will feel no tackiness, and the cure will be smooth and hard.
Why is UV Resin Still Sticky After Curing?
Some ultraviolet (UV) light-curable adhesives and coatings may exhibit tackiness or stickiness. Oxygen inhibition occurs when atmospheric oxygen interferes with the cure of a polymerizing material’s surface layer.
During curing, UV resin forms a tacky outer layer as it reacts with ultraviolet light. To avoid sticky edges, apply UV light in thin layers. To scrape off the excess, use a wood stick. UV resin works best in layers since thin layers promote better curing.
Ultrasonic cleaners or sunlight may be able to remove UV resin, but it may take longer than UV light to do so. The size and shape of the pieces will determine whether a higher-powered UV lamp is more practical. A UV light with sufficient room to cure many parts simultaneously is also essential.